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IFA Paris’ Undergraduate Annual Fashion Show ‘East Meets West’

5 Jul

Last Wednesday, June 27th  IFA Paris’ fashion design students in Paris presented their final collections on the theme ‘East Meets West.’ in front of 200 fashion media and VIP guests.  A selected group of students presented their graduate and evening gown collections, while a few assemble pieces, created by shanghai bachelor graduates, made its way to Paris to be presented as well.

Check out a few photos of fashion show below.

To read more about about IFA Paris’ 2012 Fashion Show in Paris , please read our press release : http://www.ifa-edu.fr/media/events/2012/ifa-paris%E2%80%99-undergraduate-annual-fashion-show-%E2%80%98east-meets-west%E2%80%99

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Photos: © David Tergemina / TRG prod / www.myfashionreel.com

Balenciaga/Comme des Garcons at Cité de la Mode et du Design

3 Jul

IFA Paris’ MBA Fashion Business students visited Cité de la Mode et du Design’s parallel exhibitions, Comme des Garçons/Balenciaga, curated by Olivier Saillard as a re-launch of Cite de la Mode’s architectural renovation.  The students really had a great chance to see fashion transcend through several exhibitions, from Kawakubo’s contemporary collection to Balenciaga’s historical prespective.

For more details about the students’ visit click here:http://www.ifa-edu.fr/media/events/2012/balenciagacomme-des-garcons-cit%C3%A9-de-la-mode-et-du-design

Enjoy the photos from the day below.

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Fashion Runway: Frida Misthou

25 Jun

Frida Misthou used her Greek origins to inspire a collection for IFA Paris 2012 Fashion Show theme East Meets West.  Through an exquisite array of elegant pleats, her cross-cultural examination of Greece and Turkeygives Classical Greek mythology a rippled effect of modern couture.  We caught up with Frida to catch a glimpse of her sketches before next week’s show!

Efstratia (Frida)  Misthou

Age: 26

Place of Birth: Athens, Greece

What does this year’s theme East Meets West mean to you?

This year’s theme for me was an opportunity to combine different and maybe controversial aspects of eastern and western civilizations or cultures into garments, through a very creative process.

What inspired your collection?

The Western part of my collection was inspired by the Greek pleats,which are depicted in the ancient statues, such as Nike of Samothrace. For the Easterninfluence,I took my inspiration from the Dervichestourneurs’ garments of Turkey.

Can you tell us a little bit about it?

When the theme of the collection was given to us, I instantly knew what I wanted to do. Because of my Greek origin, pleats in Classical Greek statues have always fascinated me and I wanted to use them in more modern way. As for my eastern inspiration, my country is next to Turkey, so it is logical tohave a lot of things in common, regarding for example our music, cuisine and some of our traditions. It is true that we have more things in common that these two countries dare to admit. My Turkish inspiration was theDervichesTourneurs, or in English Whirling Dervishes. They are a religious group of men, who are dressed in white jackets andwhite long skirts. They believe that they can come closer to God, through a ritual in which the accompaniment of music helps them reach ecstasy. They start to turn around themselves and gradually they speed up the turning. The visual effect created by this spinning is something uniquely sentimental and captivating.That was the feeling that I wanted to convey throughout my collection. I chose to design something that communicates a feeling of lightness and flow. I wanted to depict the image of an ethereal woman, like a goddess.Furthermore, I thought it was a good idea to unite these to countries, who are known to be enemies, into beautiful garments, in peace!

What has been the most difficult part of the design process?

The design process was interesting and creative! My main problem was not the creation of the designs,but the technical aspects of it. Specifically, in my former school in Athens we didn’t use Illustrator and Photoshop, so the most difficult part for me was to learn how to use them. Finally, through a lot of practice all became clear to me.

What has surprised you the most?

What has surprised me was that I managed to depict my thoughts and inspirations in a precise, clear and beautiful way into something not only artistic, but also functional and wearable such as a garment! Also I am happy that I managed to overcome all the difficulties of this year and rise to the occasion. This entire year was a big challenge!

How have your instructors helped you throughout?

My professors were the greatest help for me! My design teacher, Lise, guide me through the whole procedurewithout being judgmental, but with patience and respect. My computer design teacher, Tove, was also very kind and patient with me. Last, my sowing, draping and pattern making teacher, Tanjia, was there for me all the way, since my clothes had very complicated patterns and the sewing had to be extremely delicate. Furthermore I learned a lot from my Marketing teachers!

Can you describe your collection in five words?

Ethereal, fragile, intricate, sophisticated, delicate.

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Frida’s sketches

IFA PARIS HOSTS CONTEST ‘I LOVE PARIS’ IN TIME FOR ITS 2012 ANNUAL FASHION SHOW ON JUNE 27TH

8 Jun

Paris, 8 of June 2012 – A creative opportunity to promote Paris’ beauty and win tickets to our annual fashion show – IFA Paris has launched a photo contest entitled ‘I LOVE PARIS’ in collaboration with the blog L’Express styles: Le Boulevardier (http://blogs.lexpress.fr/le-boulevardier/) where participants are challenged to capture why they love Paris through photography.

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Two selected winners will receive an invitation to IFA Paris’ fashion show on June 27th, with a plus one each.   Located in the heart of the fashion capital, our annual fashion spectacle showcases budding talent, attended by a host of fashion and luxury representatives and alumni.  One prize will be awarded by the number of ‘Likes’received on Facebook, while the second will be awarded by the jury represented by IFA Paris and the Blog L’Express Styles: Le Boulevardier committee.

Founded in March 2011, in Lyon by Vu Quan and Laurent, L’Express Styles: Le Boulevardier presents a hub for digital creativity and fashion activism.  An observatory think goblet, the blog’s initiative conducts a perfect platform to share fashion and beauty from the streets, and with 350 k unique visitors in 12 months, why wouldn’t you want to showcase your photography skills there?

What does it take to enter? Applicants must take a beautiful photograph of Paris (original work only) and send it to ifapariscontest@inspire-ifa.comaccompanied by a short description of the photo and their name.  All applicants must be 18 years or older, with a maximum of two photo submissions per individual.  Photo submissions will be posted on IFA Paris’ Facebook Page contest album where anyone with an active Facebook profile can vote on an applicant’s entry once, with no limit to how many different photos they ‘Like.’

So what are you waiting for?  Let your friends know today to garner maximum exposure for a chance to win tickets to IFA Paris’ annual fashion show and a potential feature on both of L’Express style blogs, Le Boulevardier and hit bag (English version). Show us why you LOVE Paris and let the public and our jury members decide how much they ‘Like’ it too.

The contest begins June 8th at 7:30 am CET and closes June 20th at 11:59 pm,. Winners will be announced on June 22nd, 2012.

Contest rules: http://www.facebook.com/IfaParisFashionSchool/app_6009294086

Colette Carnaval: Celebrating Colette’s 15th Anniversary in Paris

14 Mar

Trailing the end of Fashion Week, Paris’ elite multi-concept department store Colette celebrated its 15-year anniversary over the weekend of March 10th and 11th in the Jardin de Tuileries.  The highly anticipated Carnaval, a first public event for the Tuileries forum outside of Fashion Week, attracted hefty crowds – many visitors never even got inside the 43,000-square-foot tent, and it’s no surprise.  

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For their 15th anniversary Colette’s founder, Sarah Andelman took the initiative to involve the public in a larger than life celebration.  After fashion week, this was an exciting opportunity for adults and children alike to engage in an inaugural cultural epicenter launched in the heart of the city’s first arrondissement. The festival fair, held a stone’s throw away from the boutique’s Saint-Honoré location, boasted a versatile array of interactive fun from the best brands indesign, beauty, technology and food &drink.  Repetto, Kitsuné, Nike, Carven, and Comme des Garcons were among the leadingsartorial rosterthat participatedin the post-fashion week festivities over the two-day celebration, cementing innovative ideas geared towards the multi-concept store.

With many brands debuting new collections, capsule collections and collaborations over Paris Fashion Week, this was a great opportunity to reinforce their launch to a wider audience.  A.P.C., whose recently launched collaboration with Vanessa Seward, first presented in a Paris showroomlast week, secured a space at the Carnaval, as did Nike who celebrated its NIKE Night Track, a modern interpretation of the ‘70s style shoe, in cherry red.  Nike even assembled a basketball court for adults and children alike to practice their skills, as well as a dance workshop in collaboration with I COULD NEVER BE A DANCER.  Shoe brands Solemart and Repetto also used the Carnaval as an interactive marketing opportunity with Repetto’s kid-friendly dance classes, hosted early Sunday afternoon, as a major success withfamily crowds.

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For those whose physical forte isn’t basketball or dance, there were many other options tailored to every cultural taste: Le Cooklette offered cooking lessons, Lomography showcased the latestin photography, Edith A. Miller opened a Kissing Booth, andScott Campbell conducted a blind tattoo session. Other highlights includedsome of the gourmet food stalls amidst the 50 plus booths, such as Ladurée’s miniature antique style cart that whipped up cotton candy flavored macarons especially for the event.

Of course, this public milestone had to maintain some sort of exclusivity, so the store celebrated with a private party on Saturday evening for press and VIP guests.   Partygoersdropped beats to a live performance from Kid Cudi(who cancelled his earlier public showscheduled to take place that day at 5:00pm), and noshed on old-fashioned popcorn and cotton candy, while perusing the goods and mingling with designers.  Most popular, was the photobooth situated conveniently next to Laetitia Crahay’s milliner stand, allowing guests to snap a photo clad in the designer’s fancy hats.

Colette’s iconic success continues throughout March, with an illustration exhibit by Australian artist Craig Redman, whose emblematic Darcel Cyclops has been featured on the store’s various decorations and merchandise including everything from balloons and pins, to Haribo gummy bears or iPhone cases designed especially for the event.  In this latest exhibit, entitled ‘150/15,’ Redman’s illustrations will feature fashion’s famous faces such as Bill Cunningham, Lady Gaga, and Coco Chanel – a solid wrap to finalize four weeks of fashion worldwide.

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                                                         Article by Ali Leier

Paris Fashion Week AW12 – The Crystal Method

13 Mar

Paris Fashion Week AW12 was a celebration of sorts – anniversaries, departures and inaugural performances, for many designers. Alber Elbaz celebrated his ten-year anniversary at Lanvin, Stefano Pilati solemnly departed YSL after a eight year tenure, Marc Jacobs celebrated his first exposition with Louis Vuitton at Musée Arts Decoratifs, and Manish Aroraand Kanye West both launched second collections for respective lines PacoRabanne and Kanye West.

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 Chanel’s AW12 Fashion show

So where did that take the aesthetic direction for fall? Well, one strong theme amongst this season’s chaos culminatedin a fascination with precious stones. While many houses, particularly Chanel, PacoRabanne and Stella McCartneyriffed on prismatic hues and patterns in a literal sense, others, like Balmain, Viktor & Rolf and Givenchy explored a deeper foundation of jeweled metamorphosis. From baroque, opulently embellished garments, or modernist, plasticized evolutions, to subversive rock and roll post-punk glamour, to provocatively dark and fetishistic sexiness, precious stones inspired a diverse array of looks for AW12, a strong departure from spring’s pastel trend.

Arguably the leader of the fashion industry, Karl Lagerfeld turned his biannual bravura performance at the Grand Palais into a crystal concubine this Tuesday, March 6, rendering life-sized plastic manifestations of sapphire and amethyst stones.  His jewel-toned collection echoed the setting with sheer metallic maxi-skirts and pants in gold, sapphire or ruby over skinny black pants, creating a mille feuille of texturized excavation.  Karl didn’t miss a detail – embroidered braid edged suits captured micro-crystals while cold cuffs and necklaces boasted large amethyst stones.  Of course, the iconic quilted Chanel purses in rich purple leather were adorned with crystals too.  And the superlative designer didn’t stop there.  Models’ eyebrows were exaggerated through crystal appliques, and his much anticipated nail polish colors, this season in Blue Satin, Pearl Drop and Vendetta, were distributed to excited guests.

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Chanel’s AW12 Fashion show

Lanvin’s show, carried the theme of opulence in a lavish display of goodies for AlberElbaz’ 10th year anniversary at the house.  Sculpted cocktail dresses in solid hues of emerald, sapphire and ruby opened the show, which quickly morphed silky frocks elevated by crystal clustered embellishments or glamorous jeweled bib necklaces.   The overall aesthetic was feminine, fun and audacious – like the sultry, yet lighthearted Lanvin romantic woman.  Even Stella McCartney focused her ordinarily nude color palette around azure.  Elegant sportswear and classic eveningwear found solice through a balance between stark cobalt and soft variations of peach, ecru and nude. Formally closing fashion week at ten am as always, Marc Jacobs exceeded his SS12 carrousel performance with an in-house built steam engine roaring through the Louvre Carrée.  His prohibition exploration focused on metallic jewel embellishments on A-line wool dresses.  Jacobs’ detailed opulence, most notably on the highly lauded accessories, elevated his use of a primarily singular silhouette.   An ornate display, even for a house like Vuitton, which reminded its audience of the evening’s red carpet event at Musée Arts Decoratifs.

Other housesalso took a more subversive approach to the obvious theme of jewel-toned riches through an exposition of curious textures, such as Olivier Roustang’s reworked Balmain blazer embellished with couturier caliber clusters of pearls juxtaposed byvelvetflared trousers in chrysocolla.  The heavily saturated compilations lent a baroque edge to Balmain’s rocker look. Similarly, Manish Arora focused his second collection at PacoRabanne around a shade of azure, offset by micro-chainlink embellished cuffs and dropped embellished waistlines on shifts in place of a belt.  His designs felt fresh and wearable, in the way that Christophe Decarnin reinvented Balmain some five or six years ago.  Riccardo Tisci honed his dark, fetishistic aesthetic that has earnedGivenchythe title of one of the hottest shows in town through rich combinations of black leather and astrakhan.  Bright bursts of ruby and topaz lit up the otherwise anthracite aesthete, bringing a fiery elegance to his models. Viktor & Rolf approached the riches of gemstones from a more abstract perspective.  Their intricate collection, composed primarily of fur, incorporated couturier practices into a RTW collection.  After showing a modest palette of neutral earth tones, the gentleman duo finalized their collection with an artistic backdrop that morphed from black and white into a fiery blazon yellow, exposing the sentiment ‘everything turns to gold.’

After spring’s reigning romance – Karl’s minty sea creatures, Marc’s candy carrousel confections, and Valentino’s lacey feminine frocks, designers looked to a bold direction for fall.  Rocker and fetishistic undertones elevated opulent baroquecollections, with garments undergoing a crystal metamorphosis. Amidst many new departures and directions for designers this season, they needed to look towards something constant to find value.  What better place to go than the core of the earth?

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  Chanel’s AW12 Fashion show

                                                      Article by Ali Leier

“Goudemalion: Jean-Paul Goude, a Retrospective”

28 Feb

On Friday February 3rd, our 2011 MBA Fashion Business students were given the opportunity to visit Jean Paul Goude’s first Paris exhibition. Jean-Paul Goude, 71 years old, has worked as an illustrator, graphic designer, photographer and advertising film director and forover 40 years, he’s produced enough intelligent art to earn an exhibition at the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris. Our students were very fascinated and inspired by Goude’s work.

To have a more in-depth read about the exhibition please visit our press release here: http://ifa-edu.cn/ifaen/zldongtaiController/viewNews/741

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Press release and photos by Ali Leier

Here are some ads done by Goude that you must have seen in magazines, on billboards in the metro, and in the streets of Paris as well as famous brands such as: Galleries Lafayette and Chanel.

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Galleries Lafayette, Model: Laetitia Casta

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Chanel, Model: Estella Warren

 “So Goude!”

Homemade/handmade: Biennale International du Lin de Portneuf 2011 – 2012

24 Feb

This is an exhibition about linen as a thread and fabric, how you can use it in different creations, manipulate it and show it in lots of different manners that you can only imagine. The exhibition is held by the city of Paris to promote young designers by using linen as a medium. 

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In the framework of the international biennale of Linen de Portneuf, the commissioner has put together 12 designers from France, Quebec and Belgium. They presented their creations using linen as thread or fabric in many ways such as pleating, stamping, embroidery, knitting, etc. In the exhibition, you can see pictures and also the actual garment to feel and touch.

It is an interesting exhibition for aspiring designers to gain knowledge about techniques and linen as fabric but also gain insight that there are plenty of ways to create something beautiful and innovative, just by using linen. The exhibition space is not big, thus it won’t take much time to see it all and it is free of charge. Homemade/handmade is held from 10th of January until 17th of March 2012. It is located at Les ateliers de Paris, 30 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine. More info at http://www.ateliersdeparis.com

Written by Yasir, Zivan, Alice and Jursy

HAUTE COUTURE SPRING 2012’S METATHEATRICAL MEDITATIONS

17 Feb

Oscar Wilde famously said, “Be yourself, everyone else is already taken.”  This statement certainly resonates in an artist’s world, and particularly so during the past haute couture season where the whole concept of competition has radically changed.  Just as Karl Lagerfeld staged what is arguably his greatest catwalk to date by turning a wing of the Grand Palais into an airplane, he also launched his highly anticipated Karl for Net-A-Porter line two days later. Similarly, Donatella Versace made her couture debut after an eight-year hiatus, while only two months before she launched her first low-end collaboration with H&M.

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Perhaps the shift in red-carpet glamour this past couture season resulted from a meditation on the current fascination with celebrities – which nowadays includes everyone from Kim Kardashian, to Justin Beiber, to Tilda Swinton.

Celebrity masstige has provided the perfect medium for couture designers to harness their imperfections in a way that translates their poetic vision to the consumer public. From new Hollywood glamour at Versace and Armani Privé; to subversive goth-popincarnations at Gaultier and Givenchy; to Middle Eastern romance at Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad, spring 2012’s couture collections showed a sparkle of light in a new direction the last week of January – one unapologetically candid at that.

Donatella Versace’s haute couture collection opened the season with a glamorously epic return since the house’s 2004 hiatus.  Plastic sparkling bodices and full-length silk skirts in an array of delectable sorbet hues balanced out silver metallic mini dresses and cropped sportswear jackets, achieving overt, yet functional glamour.  Her collection, shamelessly imbued with Versace’s flagrant glitz, successfully personified this season’s celebrity theme, conducted as a presentation, on a red-carpeted stairway enclosed behind a velvet rope.  More celebrity moments endured at Armani Privé minutes before the runway performance commenced when The Help’s Jessica Chastain received an Oscar nomination from the front row.  Not surprisingly, the news instilled excitement from the Grand Palais’ audience, as electric green algae inspired sea creatures sauntered down the runway in a progression of sculpted metallic suits andaudacious evening gowns, playing on innovative fabric and textures throughout.  His bold embellished sea creatures showed a new departure for the silhouette master tailor – evoking visions of eccentrically modern mavens like Cate Blanchett as candidates for this season’s red carpet look.

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 Versace’s haute couture collection

Jean Paul-Gaultier and Riccardo Tisci heralded subversive rocker revelations through slightly taboo collections.  Gaultier’s Amy Winehouse homage resonated with this season’s celebration of the contemporary celebrity and fashion muse, commenting on the impact of adversity in personal style. He accessorized his corseted Sixties retro vixens aplomb in pencil skirts and sky-high stilettos with a cigarette and bouffant.  Tisci honed his craft again at Givenchy, proving the importance of ingenuity in longevity as a designer. His current couture collection utilized a strict palette of black, white and sand to emphasize the details of his trade: leather over-the-elbow gloves and ornate nose piercings lent a subtle sadistic twist to combinations of beautifully embroidered maxi skirts and transparent gauzy asymmetrical blouses. Coming on seven years at the French house, Tisci has solidified a harmonious balance between his fascination with the gothic underworld and the pursuit of an ethereal aesthetic.

Chanel’s latest couture collection from the Kaiser himself echoed a handful of decades through zany, windswept airline stewardess silhouettes in periwinkle and azure, including the Twenties , Sixties, and Eighties.  The whirlwind show launched for takeoff in a rarely used wing of the Grand Palais, accommodating the most exclusive crowd to date –a mere 10 members from US press were sat at each show.  While the collection wasn’t Lagerfeld’s most successful to date, his modern vision and grandeur didn’t disappoint.

Middle Eastern romance reigned at Zuhair Murad and Elie Saab where couture candy confections dominatedrunways. Despite the typically Lebanese representation of glamour, the shows succeeded through each designer’s acknowledgement of what they do best: baroqueopulence, replete with sequins and sparkles.  And what’s so difficult about that?  Everyone likes a man who understands the female silhouette and the need to feel comfortable in a dress destined for victory.  Still, men who know themselves like Murad and Saab exude elegance through the delicate details in their work, like Saab’s low cut backs and sporadically short hemlines.  As today’s super gamines paraded down his runway, the lyrics, “What’s so special about me? I’m ordinary,” repeated in the background and sort of defined the profound moment of the season: between celebrity fascination and red-carpet grandeur, we all want to understand the foibles of human nature; we all want a piece of the designer dream.

Which brings us back to Wilde who also famously taught us that, “The critic has to educate the public; the artist has to educate the critic.”  If the modern critic represents the media, and the modern artist represents the designer, where does the celebrity fall?  Today Anna Wintour, Karl Lagerfeld and Cameron Diaz all fit that star-studded bill.  So the current conversation is open.  Applicants welcome.

                                                                                                      By Ali Leier

Fall 2012s Modern Military Man: Finding Light in Moments of Darkness

15 Feb

For fall 2012, menswear designers constructed a politically charged fashion movement rife with all the elements of a revolution: from posh-punk underground mavericks, to traveling tribal nomads, to sporty desert storm paratroopers, this season’s runway was blazon with militaristic undertones. Betwixt the heavy material however, lied moments of light and innovation, which created a peaceful juxtaposition of lavish authority and paired down free love – the result, a bohemian militia worthy of a new era. 

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Luxury labels set the initial tone for this season’s leitmotif, deemed last week ‘posh-punk’ by editors all over the globe, as established French houses like Yves Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton transformed otherwise head-to-toe noir ensemblesinto dramatically decadent modern visions through ornate layers of baroque fabric.  Yves Saint Laurent’s collection by Stefano Pilati, held in Paris’ Sorbonne, showcasedclassically cut cavalry coats and wool pea coats embellished with leather, fur and astrakhan lapelsthat looked timelessly chic and rich.  The addition of buckles, straps and leather panels on jackets and even sweaters lent a slightly fetishistic spin to the modern power dresser.  The same embellishments were seen at Louis Vuitton, but this time in an earthy palette.  Kim Jones’ nod to the luxury label’s travel heritage imbued his FW 12 collection with tonal trappings of mahogany and khaki recalling the look of the luggage brand’s worn leather.  Astrakhan was seen again, here on shoes, where the reflective palette caught our attention and then bounced back up towards Jones’ innovative fabrics, like tan suede jumpsuits, and fur lined bomber jackets.

Classicists like Lanvin and Dior didn’t shy away from extravagance either, but they found their own modern military.  Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz innovated the classic suit by experimenting with fabrics to contort silhouette and proportion.  High waists and big shoulders evoked Germanic, austere proportions, while bright color blocking lent a more refined romantic sensibility to the collection.

Kris Van Assche’s latest collection for Dior Homme – entitled  ‘A Soldier on my Own’ – focused on a strictly military palette of army green, black and white that looked ultra-chic.  Jared Leto and Les Twins were among the front row elite who watched Van Assche unveil a sporty, wearable FW runway show on Saturday, January 21. Mixed, yet tailored sportswear in almost exclusively army green dominated the first ten or so looks, replete with baseball caps, aviators and leather gloves.  As the collection progressed, military jackets became more structured and Van Assche added embellishments such as metallic paneling and lamb’s wool collars.  His final jackets, embroidered with a peace dove, provided the perfect emblematic print to finish this classic collection, as did his stark white suits.

Even this season’s newbies were acutely aware of winter’s fashion war. Phillip Lim ‘s debut menswear collection in Paris echoed the military theme throughout. Rich fabric combinations like tweed and gabardine in varying shades of charcoal and heather gray found similitude through austere knotted leather belts and black creepers with stark white laces.   Slicked back hair or unkempt locks kept the rogue mobster theme in tow, as did flashes of camouflage prints to accentuate an otherwise neutral palette.  Damir Doma wowed audiences in his second menswear season through unique mixtures of patterns and textures, such as offset asymmetrical striped suits and beaded accessories, to open ponchos and drop-crotch pants, to low-slung belts over knit caftans.  The innovative mix echoed Doma’s global theme, as did his international selection of male models, which left an exceptionally fresh and modern impression on his audience (there wasn’t an empty seat in the house).  His last few looks morphed into a darker, militaristic aesthete that echoed a touch of Rick Owens’ tailoring and Nineties flare.

Other more alternative collections to explore this season’s battle of light and darkcame from Ann Demeulemeester and Yohji Yamamoto.  Demeulemeester’s focus on light was specific: the Antwerp designer’s nearly all black palette was brought to life through Rothko inspired ombré, particularly impressive on black knee-high boots.  Other moments, such as the electric azure blazer, increased the juxtaposition of darkness and light, narrowing our view on select pieces that will surely sell.  Yohji Yamamoto led nomadic spirits through a crossroad (the catwalk was literally a zigzag floor with arrows drawn in every which direction) in sumptuous layers of elegantly cut fabric – a master tailor even when working in a bohemian aesthete. There was something light and not so lost about his wandering soldiers – an inner sense of direction was felt, as was the quality and longevity in the modernity of his designs.

From Yamamoto’s wise wanderers to Van Assche’s birds of peace, menswear collections struck a sense of serenity last week in Paris,as if to sign a treaty with our era’s lack of cultural cognizance and our difficult relationshipwith contemporary economical adversity. Perhaps then, why Kavinsky’s subversive pop jam “night call” was heard on at least four runways, reiterating the same two phrases throughout the bass-heavy beat: “I’m gonna tell you something you don’t want to hear/ I’m gonna show you where its dark, but have no fear.” 

Image                                                                 Article by Ali Leier