Fashion Focus: Phoebe Philo for Céline

Phoebe Philo, Paris-born British fashion designer, has successfully relaunched the French luxury house Céline.

Céline is a French label founded by Céline Vipiana in 1945, which was originally selling tailor-made shoes for children, then launched a footwear line for adults along with accessories and finally ready-to-wear clothing in 1960. Many designers have succeeded at the head of the creative direction of the house but not all of them have encountered great success, except for Michael Kors who designed several collections during 7 years before focusing on his own label in 2005.

Céline was slowly fading away when Pheobe Philo, graduate from Central Saint Marteens College in London and former head designer at Chloé, entered the company as the new creative director in 2009. Her vision and master of proportions took the brand back on the fashion scene, getting high recognition by her peers as well as luxury and fashion professionals. She, better than anyone else, was able to create balanced silhouette through classic, chic and minimal designs. Her timeless collections, often full of neutral tones, have been a signature style in past years.

Her graphic creativity and ability to create aesthetically and commercially attractive collections made her a star within the LVMH group – owner of Céline. Marc Jacobs being evoked to replace John Galliano at Dior, Pheobe Philo is said to be a potential successor at Louis Vuitton (http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2011/oct/02/paris-fashion-phoebe-philo-celine). With her sharp perception of what women like to wear, she will undoubtedly continue to rise within the world of fashion and luxury.

Fashion focus: Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy

Since 2005, Riccardo Tisci has held the position of creative director for Givenchy, the French label founded in 1952 by Hubert de Givenchy and originally known for its contemporary and ladylike style and its famous clients like Audrey Hepburn and the Kennedy family.

Ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2012 Collection

Mr. Tisci graduated from London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in 1999 and, after having worked for a few companies like Puma and Ruffo Research, he decided to focus on his own fashion line which he exhibited in Milan in 2004. It was at this time, Givenchy discovered him and offered him a position as chief designer. At first, he hesitated but a phone call from his mother saying that she was about to sell the family house because of a lack of money made him change his mind. Always known to be a very religious man, he believed this opportunity was a sign of god and he took it to save his family from poverty.

Since then, he has been working his magic on Givenchy’s haute couture and ready-to-wear lines. He draws his inspiration from his religious roots, and his collections strongly reflect his beliefs which feature some gothic and romantic themes. Mr. Tisci also has a very specific sense of scenography and space. For example, on the runway, he likes to give a theatrical presentation of his designs. He says “My way of showing is very melancholic… I love romanticism and sensuality.”  Considered as a genius by the fashion scene, Riccardo Tisci’s work has been greatly appreciated over the past years, bringing both financial success and excellent reputation to the house of Givenchy.

Ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2012 Collection

Ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2012 Collection

Some other interesting tidbits about Mr. Tisci include being the first designer to feature a transsexual model on the runway, his former personal assistant Lea T, as well as a recent rumor following the Galliano scandal in Paris that Mr. Tisci is on the top of the list as a potential replacement at Dior.  The future of fashion looks very promising in the luxury sector as Ricardo Tisci’s avant-gaude style looks to continue to seduce the fashion sphere into the 21st century.

2011 Haute Couture Collection modeled by Lea T

A teacher’s perspective: Jayne Swallow interview

On November 29^th, I had the opportunity to get to know more about Jayne Swallow, fashion buyer specialist, and her impressions about teaching at IFA Paris in Shanghai.

Jayne Swallow, pictured far left, with two students from our MBA/Masters programs

IFA Paris : Hi Jayne, thank you for taking some time out of your busy schedule to share some of your experiences with us. For the average reader, it would be great if you could give us a brief introduction about yourself and the experience you are able to bring to IFA Paris.

Ms Swallow: Absolutely, I initially graduated in a non-fashion related subject having obtained a degree in politics. Upon graduating, I undertook a graduate training program as a buyer in the UK for a company, for their clothing side. I had the advantage of a lot of good courses that they ran in-house; I went on to work for a company that changed its name and is now River Island. I bought accessories and hosiery there. Then I worked for the company where I spent the largest amount of time, a company called Primark. When I first joined, many years ago, it was a very little known company. In total, they only had 45 stores in Ireland and the UK. I grew from being a buyer there to be a controller then executive controller and finally director for buying, When I left, which was over 22 years later, I had responsibility for ladies wear, lingerie, footwear, hosiery, accessories – it accounted for about 2/3rds of the turnover. But by then, the company had grown from being a very small company to an international company, very well known and one of the largest retailers by volume in the UK, so it was a huge change! After this success, I wanted to give a new turn to my career, I started to teach a Masters program in the UK focused on Fashion Merchandise Management. I really enjoyed teaching Buying and Merchandising and its now been part of my passion for 25 years.

IFA Paris: How did it feel to start as a teacher compared to working in a professional environment?

Ms Swallow: In some ways, there’s a lot of correlation because at such levels, that is to say junior levels, you would present a range, use your communication skills by meeting new suppliers, etc. So there is a core set of skills that are translatable and obviously the professional side knows the actual work so it was basically learning how to adapt and to work with the students.

IFA Paris: So you definitely use practice and not only theory during lectures?

Ms Swallow: Because I come from more of the experience side of the industry, I have that aspect. But what I tried to do was really give them a taste of what it is like to be in a buying office. So what I started to do and what I have developed and am doing more and more now is set up scenarios that are truly what would happen in a buying office. For example, when we are talking about pricing and sourcing, we would go through negotiating scenarios. I also printed off huge amounts of photographs of styles so they can see what is like to have to select from a big range and what you could put into a top store and how you condense it down to smaller stores

IFA Paris: What classes are you currently teaching at IFA Paris and to which programs?

Ms Swallow: I am teaching on the MBA/Masters programs and the unit I do is Buying and Merchandising. So I am working with students on the details of what a buyer does and what a merchandiser does. I am also covering some wider aspects: they are not just only learning about the buyer and merchandiser’s skills but we are also looking at how technology is changing, fashion retail, ethical and sustainable issues and the future of fashion. So we try to embrace the bigger picture.

IFA Paris: So you have to adapt your content depending on the news for example?

Ms Swallow: Yes! In fact I wouldn’t be able to send my Powerpoint lecture notes until one week before, particularly with technology: its changes so much! For example, I just heard on the news that eBay had opened a pop-up shop: so this is an example of online retail going to bricks and mortar and how the distribution channels are changing.

IFA Paris: How have your current experiences at IFA Paris been?

Ms Swallow: I have really enjoyed the variety of the students. We have a really interesting mix and a lot of nationalities: out of 21 students, there were 15 nationalities! We do a lot of interactive work in groups and it is very interesting because the cultural background that people are bringing to how we are looking at things is very enriching as well.

IFA Paris: Is there any difference between teaching in China and teaching in the UK?

Ms Swallow: Well I do not have extensive experience teaching in the UK but on the Masters course, I also had this variety of nationalities so, to some extents, it is pretty similar.

IFA Paris: So you do not necessarily need to adapt the content of your lectures in that sense?

Ms Swallow: The content has to be truly international. Whereas when I am teaching in the UK, it would be more grounded in the UK retail picture, I am very conscious of using global companies.

IFA Paris: What is your philosophy of teaching?

Ms Swallow: What I have discovered is very much that I should really start them on certain topics and give them some initial background information. The most effective way is for them to work in groups and then I can work individually with those groups as well to prove they’ve understood what we are doing. And sometimes I think they’ve understood and it is only then that I find some gaps and some misunderstandings. Through feedback, students have mentioned this is a great way for them to understand.

IFA Paris: So there is a big focus on case studies?

Ms Swallow: Yes, but very much the type of things that I write and scenarios that I set up rather than an overall case study taken from elsewhere.

IFA Paris: Do have any thoughts about IFA Paris or any particular course?

Ms Swallow: I really like the breadth of the courses they have here, far more than in the UK for Masters in fashion business. I think students are exposed to a wide variety of courses which is interesting as a lot of students are not quite sure how they want to take their careers. So having the opportunity to dig into different aspects of fashion really helps them pick a suitable career path in the future. I also think there is a huge advantage being based in China which is where so much of the manufacturing sites are located.  With such an amazing opportunity to study in an emerging market, its great to see students capitalize on visits to fashion fairs and manufacturing factories. I would find it interesting for IFA Paris to find closer relationships and build links with the manufacturing side, the buying offices and the testing companies in Shanghai.

IFA Paris: Do you have any other suggestions or comments you would like to add?

Ms Swallow: I understand it is only the beginning now but I would suggest using more the LMS tool which represents an amazing resource in terms of teaching materials.

IFA Paris: Thank you for your time Jayne!

Industry exposure: MBA/Masters Luxury Brand Management students at Superbla! in Shanghai

Students from the MBA/Masters Luxury Brand Management program went to visit the Superbla! Office in Shanghai and got the chance to discover the team’s extensive experiences in digital marketing and PR for luxury brands.

Superbla! is a digital marketing and PR agency whose clients are mainly luxury brands. They specialize in building brand strategy through combining creativity and technology as a mean of expression. It is not just a traditional agency: their core values are extreme creativity and being at the forefront of technology to create emotion and engagement towards their clients’ customers. It is what they called “social guanxi” – network in Chinese -, a sort of interactive and digital community.

Their branch Superpress also focuses on public relations and media to build strong relationships with luxury industry influencers in China and often operates through co-branding activities to raise awareness of foreign brands in Asia.

The team members shared their knowledge of brand strategy through case studies and stressed the fact that it is important to stand out of the pack and offer something unique. For example, they differentiated themselves by using art, culture and design as leverages for their clients.

They also gave students a few tips for their career path such as “exploring your creativity, experiencing different jobs and environments and try things out before settling down.”

Apart from their expertise in digital marketing and public relations and their unique way to approach communication plans, I felt the success of the agency was all about passion and doing things that they love.

Industry guest: Stephen Cowles from Dalziel + Pow at IFA Paris in Shanghai

Stephen Cowles, Managing Director at Dalziel + Pow was keen to come to IFA Paris in Shanghai on November 19^th to talk about their store design and brand identity to students from the MBA/Masters in Fashion Business.

Since 1983, Dalziel + Pow, one of the largest retail consultancies, is focused on brand definition and brand environments, notably retail store design and brand communications.

The presentation was about what makes a good brand experience exemplified through differentiation, customer engagement and design efficiency.  He included several concrete brand examples to illustrate all of those stages. For example, a case study on a brand, in particular, helped the students understand the process and stages of brand design, including conceptualization, words, colours and textures and how it translates physically into the store design. Mr. Cowles also shared his extensive vision on by brands by referring to a brand as “not only a logo or a colour; it is an attitude, it is what’s make it desirable” and how Chinese perception of a brand is very different in comparison to other nationalities.

When asked how it feels to live in Shanghai and how it has been so far, Stephen Cowles said to be inspired by everything that surrounds him. He thinks “you have to get inspiration from what’s around you and store it in your brain. It helps a lot when you will have to look for new concepts and ideas when it comes to design”.

It seems that, to be creative and think strategically, one has to be sharp and absorb every piece of surrounding information.

It seems that, to be creative and think strategically, one has to be sharp and absorb every piece of surrounding information. To succeed in branding, it will be imperative to build upon your core skills in design and drive imaginative innovation from your local environment.

IFA Students take Saint Catherine to the next level

On November 25th, Bachelor students in Shanghai celebrated Saint Catherine, an ancient tradition originating from France. It is known to be a special day for 25-years old singles not having found their beloved one yet. Single ladies are supposed to wear custom made distinctive hats, mostly green and yellow colored, to symbolize their search for a husband.

Bachelor students in Shanghai gave us a very modern reinterpretation of this tradition by imagining a series of unbelievably creative, colorful and geometrical hats for an exclusive Saint Catherine – runway.

Industry Exposure: M•A•C Cosmetics at IFA Paris in Shanghai

On November 24^th, Mark Jiang, Brand Manager for M·A·C Cosmetics delivered a presentation to students from the Masters in Fashion Business in Shanghai.

Mark Jiang, who is originally from Shanghai and having been working for M·A·C for 5 years, talked briefly about the current brand identity and strategy of M·A·C. makeup. M·A·C, which sells premium professional makeup and cosmetics, has a very specific retail strategy ranging from free stands to independent artists and has collaborations with exclusive partners, notably prestigious endorsers, and through highly creative and colorful campaigns. Their strategy is to position and convey the image of M·A·C as a favored cosmetics brand when it comes to runways or artistic performances and put the emphasis on the professional quality and the vast variety of shades.

“It is not only about makeup, but also about fashion and art in general” said Mr. Jiang.

M·A·C, which launches two new collections, limited editions or new campaigns twice a month, is now focusing on South East Asia, and more specifically China. The brand, already present in the Middle Empire, plans to strengthen its strategy and to go digital through Chinese social media.

Besides exposing M·A·C’s strategy, Mark Jiang also provided the students with career building tips and industry insight. He also emphasized the fact that the brand highly supports the fight against A.I.D.S, helping raise hundreds of thousands of US Dollars thanks to their “Viva Glam” lipstick program. I personally find it very appealing that M·A·C uses their brand image and associates itself with glamour to raise interest towards such a serious cause.

 

Fashion Focus: Albert Elbaz for Lanvin

Since 2001, Albert Elbaz has been operating as creative director for Lanvin, the oldest French fashion label, and working his magic on super feminine and colorful designs.

2012 Spring/Summer Collection

The label Lanvin was been established in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin, a miller turned children’s and women’s dressmaker, who opened her workroom on 22 Rue Saint Honoré in Paris and rapidly gained fame among French and international bourgeoisies looking for chic and elegant dresses. After Madame Lanvin’s death and despite a strong diversification – mens wear, home decor, lingerie, fragrance, etc. -, the label failed to maintain continued interest.

Many investors and designers have tried to bring the sparkle back but it was not until 2001 that Albert Elbaz was given carte blanche and succeeded in reviving this iconic label. His creative vision along with his astonishing technical skills helped Lanvin thrive back into the fashion scene. Being true to Jeanne Lanvin’s signature style, using elaborate trimmings like embroidery and beading as well as bright floral colors, Albert Elbaz excelled in giving the label the modern twist it needed.

2012 Spring/Summer Collection

2012 Spring/Summer Collection

2012 Resort Collection

Well known for his extravagant style, Albert Elbaz knows how to dress women and make them look more interesting but also still feel comfortable. His mastery of volumes and draping combined with bold colors and prints make him a can’t miss designer especially for the red carpet: Key figures like Uma Thurman, Chloë Sevigny and Michelle Obama are a few celebrities to don his designs.

With past collaboration with H&M and more recently the exclusive London hotel Claridge for the design of its iconic Christmas tree, Lanvin’s reputation will most probably continue to strengthen in the foreseeable future.

Fashion Focus: Nicolas Ghesquière for Balanciaga

Fashion Focus is a series of entries that will focus on up-and-coming designers influencing today’s fashion world.

Operating as creative director for Balanciaga since 1997, French designer Nicolas Gesquière is one of the most talented designers of his generation.

Spring/Summer 2012 Collection

The House Balanciaga, founded in Spain in 1919 by Cristóbal Balenciaga, was originally known for its haute couture line, fragrances and jewelries. In the 70’s, and after the founder’s death, Balanciaga remained mainly involved in the fragrance and licensing business, slowly losing its fashion imprint.

Nicolas Gesquière joined Balanciaga in 1995 and, used to design, among other things, funeral clothes for the Japanese licensing market. Having been noticed for his creative skills and ability to portray silhouettes, he was named 2 years later as head of Balanciaga and was given the main line to design.

Since then, his futuristic style and science fiction inspirations has gotten Balanciaga back into the fashion scene, making it one of the most sought after fashion labels.  He brought his distinctive graphic style and sense of geometry, but always remained true to Balanciaga’s original designs.  Along with his outrageous experimentations with volume and proportion, from structured blazers and graphic shoes to the modern reinterpretation of Jodhpur trousers, his influence largely shaped some popular fashion trends in recent years.

Spring/Summer 2012 Collection

Spring/Summer 2012 Collection

Spring/Summer 2012 Collection

Spring/Summer 2012 Resort Collection

Having won over celebrities like Charlotte Gainsbourg – who later became his muse -, Nicole Kidman or pope of fashion Anna Wintour, Nicolas Ghesquière truly reflects the avant-garde spirit of the new designers shaping the future of fashion.

Van Cleef & Arpels launching jewelry school in Paris

The iconic French luxury brand Van Cleef & Arpels is about to open its jewelry school in Paris.

This one-of-a-kind project aims at sharing the passion and insight into the fine art of jewelry. “L’Ecole offers a unique opportunity to discover and learn for those who are passionate about jewelry, lovers of beauty or simply curious and anyone who wishes to acquire inside knowledge of this fascinating world,” explains President Marie Vallanet-Delhom.

Taking place in an eighteen-century town house on Place Vendôme, the emblematic center of luxury jewelry in Paris, the program taught in both French and English will contain 3 modules “Unveiling”, “Shedding light on” and “Revealing”. Courses start at 600 Euros and enrollment for the 2012 sessions start on November 15^th. Registration can be made through the website www.lecolevancleefarpels.com.

L’Ecole Van Cleef & Arpels on Place Vendôme, Paris

Enrolling for a session at Van Cleef & Arpels School could be a nice complement for IFA students wishing to specialize in that segment and acquire the specific knowledge of jewelry.